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Composting 101

I have been an inadvertent composter since I was a wee schoolgirl. The first time I ate lunch in the school cafeteria, I clearly recall my teacher pointing out a special garbage pail designated for certain food scraps that he would take home and put in a pile for his garden. Our leftovers fed his plants to be healthy and resilient. While I didn’t fully understand this concept of feeding plants the bottom of my salad, bread scraps, or grass clippings at the tender age of six, composting is a simple way to add nutrient-rich humus to soil in order to promote growth and revitalize your garden!

(Credit: Aliza Ess)

The Benefits of Composting:

Compost is Free!

The composting process is cheap and simple! All you need is an enclosed container drilled with aeration holes, or designated pile, to collect food scraps, yard clippings, bits of paper and organic materials to get started. Recycle compostable materials (see the list of approved items below) and wait for it to become the rich, nutrient-laden humus that lawns and gardens need for vitality.

Compost is Good for the Environment!

Not only are you able to recycle and reuse food and organic materials that may otherwise be tossed – sometimes up to 30% of waster can be diverted through composting - but the compost created is the perfect, natural soil conditioner to promote plant health. Compost humus introduces beneficial organisms to aerate soil, ward off disease, and break down healthy organic materials. Compost eliminates the need for chemical additives to soil. One-third of landfill waste is compostable material.

Compost Revitalizes Soil and Plants!

Compost is necessary for healthy soil structure, texture, aeration, and water-retention. It loosens clay soils and increases water capacity in sandy soils. Rich compost humus increases soil fertility and promotes healthy root development. It also provides food for microrganisms, which in turn keeps soil balanced.

What’s the Difference between Passive and Managed Compost?

Passive composting require the least amount of time and effort. It is usually employed for yard waste disposal and other organic materials, which sit in a freestanding pile or enclosure. The pile compresses over time as a result of decomposition. After a year or two, the bottom section of the bin can be used in garden beds.

Managed composting involves more energy than passive, but produces compost in as little as 3-4 weeks, depending on type, collection, and chopping, and mixing of the materials. Managed piles are turned frequently, kept moist, hot, and aerated, and monitored.

What’s In My Compost?

(Credit: Cornelia)

Compostable materials are either carbon- or nitrogen-based food scraps (fruits, veggies, bread), paper products (coffee filters, brown bags, or teabags), or organic materials (plants, leaves, straw, soil, wood). See the handy table below for a listing of what can go into your compost pile, courtesy of EarthEasy.

Carbon/Nitrogen Ratio:

Healthy compost piles require a balance between these two elements. Brown carbon materials form a light-bodied humus. Green protein-rich nitrogen materials provide the necessary raw elements for enzyme growth. A standard ratio is typically 1/3 green to 2/3 brown to allow for penetration and nourishment of oxygen – too much nitrogen creates smelly, heavy compost.

Material	Carbon/Nitrogen	Info
table scraps	Nitrogen	add with dry carbon items
fruit & vegetable scraps	Nitrogen	add with dry carbon items
eggshells	neutral	best when crushed
leaves	Carbon	leaves break down faster when shredded
grass clippings	Nitrogen	add in thin layers so they don't mat into clumps
garden plants	--	use disease-free plants only
lawn & garden weeds	Nitrogen	only use weeds which have not gone to seed
shrub prunings	Carbon	woody prunings are slow to break down
straw or hay	Carbon	straw is best; hay (with seeds) is less ideal
green comfrey leaves	Nitrogen	excellent compost 'activator'
pine needles	Carbon	acidic; use in moderate amounts
flowers, cuttings	Nitrogen	chop up any long woody stems
seaweed and kelp	Nitrogen	rinse first; good source for trace minerals
wood ash	Carbon	only use ash from clean materials; sprinkle lightly
chicken manure	Nitrogen	excellent compost 'activator'
coffee grounds	Nitrogen	filters may also be included
tea leaves	Nitrogen	loose or in bags
newspaper	Carbon	avoid using glossy paper and colored inks
shredded paper	Carbon	avoid using glossy paper and colored inks
cardboard	Carbon	shred material to avoid matting
corn cobs, stalks	Carbon	slow to decompose; best if chopped up
dryer lint	Carbon	best if from natural fibers
sawdust pellets	Carbon	high carbon levels; add in layers to avoid clumping
wood chips / pellets	Carbon	high carbon levels; use sparingly

What Doesn’t Belong In My Aerobic Compost?

There are a number of materials that should avoid being added to the compost pile.

Meat, Fish, Bones – Create odor-causing bacteria that attracts pests and are not beneficial for plant growth or soil fertility.

Perennial Weeds, Diseased Plants – The weeds and disease can spread and thrive in the hot compost environment, which will spread to plants and soil.

Pet Manures – Animal waste should not be used in compost that will be spread on food crops.

Fruit peels, plant clippings treated with chemical pesticides or herbicides – the residue has the potential to contaminate the pile.

How Do I Start Aerobic Composting?

Start your pile on the ground, which will allow worms and other critters to aerate the compost naturally. If you have to use a bin, build-your-own, but be sure to drill holes for aeration, and find a proper cover! Kitchen scraps should be collected in a covered container until added to the pile.
A base layer of twigs or straw will aid in drainage and aeration of your compost.

Moist and dry compost should be added in alternating layers in the pile or bin.

Moist materials include: food scraps, tea bags, seaweed

Dry materials include: straw, leaves, sawdust, wood

Add nitrogen sources like green manure (clover, buckwheat, wheatgrass, comfrey leaves, grass clippings, young weeds) and ‘aged’ chicken manure to activate and accelerate the compost.
Keep the pile moist by watering occasionally or letting rain moisten the compost.
Cover with wood or plastic sheeting to retain moisture and heat.

Read the compost guide for more information on getting started in your home or yard!

What Are Some Tips and Tricks for Healthy Compost?

A layer of garden soil in your compost pile or bin will mask any food odors and the soils microrganisms will accelerate the process. Grass clippings or mulch, lime or calcium will also do the trick.
Cover exposed fruit and vegetable matter, or add lime or calcium to fight fruit flies
Hot and steamy compost is ripe! The heat means that microorganisms are working hard on decomposition of the material into rich humus.
Avoid clumping of materials by mixing gradually or layering thinly mulch, grass, and leaves.
Place the pile atop an area that you plan to use for a future garden or planting site – the soil beneath the compost pile or bin becomes enriched as water trickles the nutrients into the soil surface.
Turn the pile as often as possible! It aerates the pile and speeds up the process!

Howtocompost.org Top 10 Tips

What is Compost Tea?

Compost tea is liquid compost. Sacks of solid compost are soaked in water for hours or days depending on size and concentration. This liquid is then strained and sprayed atop plants as a mild, organic liquid fertilizer that restores beneficial microorganisms and increases nutrient cycling.

Further Reading

http://www.howtocompost.org/cat_compostea.asp

http://www.simplici-tea.com/

What Do You Mean By Vermicomposting?

(Credit: Kristen Clapper)

Vermicomposting, worm composting, uses red earthworms to consume organic waste in the compost, to produce castings for use as mulch, to aerate and condition the soil, and as a topsoil additive. Vermicomposting is more commonly being done indoors to breakdown food scraps. The scraps should be chopped or shredded for accelerated decomposition for worms. Vermicomposting does not require a carbon-nitrogen ratio.

Learn how to build a worm bin on HOMEGROWN!

Buy Redworms!

More on Vermicomposting:

http://www.treehugger.com/files/2007/08/green-basics-vermicompost.php

http://www.vermicompost.net/

http://compostguide.com/vermicomposting-composting-with-worms/

Worms Eat My Garbage by Mary Appelhof

Join The Discussion on HOMEGROWN:

Best Composting Method?

http://www.homegrown.org/forum/topics/2263119:Topic:2275

How to Make Compost

http://www.homegrown.org/video/how-to-make-compost